Problem Solvers

Large Strainer Basket

melev — Mon, 03 Feb 2020 15:15:31 +0000

Large Strainer Basket melev Mon, 02/03/2020 - 18:15

Going all the way back to 2005, I've always had a large strainer basket on the intake of my return pump. I have a few, so I can put them through a cleaning rotation. Originally, you could buy these at Savko, but these days that doesn't seem to be an option.

The benefit of a larger strainer is less change of restricting flow into the pump itself. This type of strainer would be great on a closed loop application if you could hide them from sight behind rockwork. Designed for 1.5" and 2" plumbing, the strainer is made of ABS plastic. If something were to get close such as a fish or anemone, the greater surface area reduces the risk that the animal will be sucked against the screen. Rather, they should be able to crawl across it unaffected and continue to live. A strainer also keeps smaller critters like snails out of the pump's impeller or intake area.

The primary use for me has always been in the sump rather than the display. I have two in my 400g's sump. One is on the Abyzz 200a return pump, and the other on the Vectra L1 pump that I use to feed the manifold and Anemone Cube. I have plenty of space intentionally. These strainers are 5" in diameter, and 3.5" thick. Plus you need a fitting to connect it to the bulkhead.

The strainer itself can be purchased on this website, and it costs about $10 each.

Depending on the bulkhead you use, you may need a slip fitting or a threaded fitting. I prefer threaded bulkheads in sumps specifcally so I can install a threaded strainer. Here are a couple of solutions depending on what you buy:

Threaded plastic nipple: You can purchase a short threaded/threaded nipple that will screw into the bulkhead, and the strainer screws onto the other side. You'll need to make sure you get the right size, like 1.5" to 1.5" to match the two parts together.

Threaded plastic pipe: If you have a slip bulkhead and an internally threaded strainer basket, you can cut the threaded pipe in half (or whatever length you need) to make a piece that has slip on one side, yet threaded on the opposite side. And if you get one that looks like this image below, you'd have two pieces to use for two different strainer baskets.

Here are a few close ups of the basket.

And here it is, installed. No need for teflon tape, silicone or glue; this is simply assembled and placed where desired:

It only needs to be screwed in a couple of twists so it stays in place. There is zero reason to screw it in tight, as that will make it harder to remove for cleaning. I never want the bulkhead to turn when removing a strainer as it might leak past the seal, so I only twist the basket about two rotations - that's good enough to keep anything out. It won't vibrate loose, if that's a concern.

Reef Blog

Apex Controller Tutorials

melev — Thu, 16 Jan 2020 16:50:27 +0000

Apex Controller Tutorials melev Thu, 01/16/2020 - 19:50

The Apex controller has been around for years, but daily people are asking questions how to program theirs, whether they are brand new users of the product, or people that have owned their controller for quite a while.

John Halsey has created eight helpful tutorials on Reef2Reef, and I'm going to link them here for you (and me):

Part 1 | Introduction: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-1.685/
Part 2 | Timers: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-2-timers.689/
Part 3 | Automatic Top Off (ATK): https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-3-automatic-top-off-kit-atk.692/
Part 4 | Power Monitoring: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-3-automatic-top-off-kit-atk.692/
Part 5 | Virtual Outlets: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-5-virtual-outputs.703/
Part 6 | Alarms: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-6-alarms.707/
Part 7 | Feed Cycles: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-7-feed-cycles.715/
Part 8 | Lunar Schedule & Lighting Profiles: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-8-and-conclusion-lunar-schedule-and-lighting-profiles.717/

Additionally here on Melev's Reef, I have my own page that discusses how I've been using mine for over a decade. My Apex has controlled lighting, heaters, cooling, and tracked water parameters perfectly. And as of 2019, via the Trident it has even started to control how my calcium reactor operates to further automate my system. If anything gets of out range, I get an email notification as well as a text on my phone. Having the ability to open up an app to quickly make instant changes is helpful, and their web-based browser login allows me to use any handy device to make adjustments as well. Included in the next link is quite a bit of my code. I need to update it soon, as I have added a few more things since that page was last edited: https://www.melevsreef.com/tanks/apex-aquarium-controller

Melev's Reef is an Apex supplier. Controllers and many accessories are available from the shop area: https://melevsreef.com/reefshop/brands/Neptune-Systems

Reef Blog

Securely install electrical inside your stand

melev — Sun, 04 Aug 2019 19:13:32 +0000

Securely install electrical inside your stand melev Sun, 08/04/2019 - 22:13

If you want to install some electrical items over open water, such as within the canopy or inside the aquarium stand, you probably have tried a few different options to run wires. It might hold for a while, but what about long term? These inexpensive sticky pads combined with some wood screws can be very trustworthy, and it will look like a nice clean install too.

You can find the sticky pads at Home Depot, as well as the wood screws. The first thing you want to determine is the length of the screw to avoid installing it too deeply, marring the surface of the cabinetry, or worse yet, making contact with your aquarium. My 400g is on a sheet of 3/4" plywood, so I used 3/4" wood screws.

The next step is affixing the sticky pad where you need to secure the wiring. I use these on the underside of my stand, directly beneath the aquarium. With the square glued in place, I used a drill to install the screw that will hold it there forever.

The sticky pad is designed so zipties to pass through it, or if you need something you can change more often, a twist-tie will suffice. Here's the cord held in place with a small ziptie.

FInally to tidy it up, I trim off the excess of the ziptie tie so it looks cleaner. It you cut it carefully, you'll avoid a sharp edge that could nick you later.

This part was larger and was somewhat heavy since it had three power supplies plugged into it. I used two sticky pads to cradle and keep the plug assembly up in a nice dry spot.

Once everything was done, I was able to test the cooling fans. They are controlled by the Apex controller, turning them on during the heat of the day.

In a future blog, I'll show you how I use these with fishing line to hold lights in place, and adjust their height as desired.

Reef Blog

When your protein skimmer keeps overflowing, try this

melev — Fri, 01 Feb 2019 13:23:34 +0000

When your protein skimmer keeps overflowing, try this melev Fri, 02/01/2019 - 16:23

From time to time our protein skimmers decide to overflow constantly, usually right back into the sump or even worse all over the cabinet and nearby floor. Typically this is caused by adding something to the water, like Chemi-Clean/RedCyano Rx, or it perhaps a food like Reefbooster. Skimmers also can be affected by changes in weather when the barometric pressure drops in your area. Another cause could be the use of new filter socks.

**Whenever a storm approaches, I highly recommend you clean out the collection cup of any skimmate so it doesn't end up back in the sump.**

I made this video to show you how I overcome the problem in a matter of hours, rather than shutting off the protein skimmer for days out of frustration... which people often tell me they do. Shut off your top off system, let the skimmer drain into a nearby bucket and replenish the tank with more saltwater to replace what has been wasted. If you do this, within a few hours the skimmer will be running like usual once more. Now turn the top off system again, and enjoy your reef.

If your protein skimmer always overflows, this is an entirely different topic and you will have to determine the cause. The most likely situation is the water level in the skimmer zone is too deep, and your skimmer needs to be placed on a stand to elevate it to the recommended depth. I sell skimmer stands if you need one.

Reef Blog

Manjanos - how I removed them from my system

melev — Wed, 04 Jul 2018 22:28:49 +0000

Manjanos - how I removed them from my system melev Thu, 07/05/2018 - 01:28

When a pest like manjanos (Anemonia Manjanos) are spotted in a reef, there are a number of removal methods to choose from. I allowed them to grow rampantly in my frag tank, essentially ignoring the problem for much too long. In this video, I demonstrate how I took the time to scrape them off the rockwork one by one until the reef was free of them. It took me a few days, working on one section at a time for about an hour. Scraping manjanos off the rockwork is an effective solution that won't affect the reef tank adversely. Spending a few hours on this task will restore the aquarium back to a healthy state, and once done you'll feel a lot better about it. This is simply one approach that you can consider, and it's free!

Things to consider: You might prefer to wear gloves. Myself, I didn’t feel the need. I wear glasses, but if you don't be sure to wear eye protection in case these anemones squirt water toward your face. Also, keep your mouth shut for the exact same reason.

I scraped clean about a dozen pieces of live rock, maybe more. Some areas were cleared more quickly since the pests were on dead coral skeleton instead of actual rock, allowing me to pry off multiple pests on chunks of skeleton. Use blue lighting to spot any stragglers, studying the rock by turning it around and around. I often found an errant one hidden on the underside.

Sometimes chipping away at the rock with bone cutters was necessary to get all of animal out, as you don’t want to leave any bit of tissue behind. It may very well grow into a new anemone. That is why you'll observe in the video how I continually scrape away at those smaller bits; I definitely don’t want to have to do this project all over again. As soon as I was done, the piece of live rock goes back into the tank and then I’d pull out the next one to scrape it clean.

The biggest benefit of this process is that you complete the job in a few days, restoring the tank back to what it should look like without destroying the bacteria in and on the rock itself. With all the rocks devoid of pests, you'll be able to re-aquascape anew to get the desired look.

If you get tired, take a break. There’s no reason to do this all in a single session, but you will definitely want to get back to this project within a day or two since manjanos have the tendency to travel and spread across the rockwork. They need light to thrive, which is why you'll see them on the rockwork in plain sight, unlike aiptasia that may be anywhere in a reef, even in dark spots deep within the rock structures. Manjanos will also climb up the walls of the aquarium, clinging to corals, powerheads, power cords, cleaning magnets… any surface that is getting hit with light basically.

You might be wondering what’s wrong with these and why do they need to be removed? They spread rapidly, tearing themselves in half to propagate, covering every rock that could otherwise be used for coral placement. Some might even like that look of a field of manjanos... and are happy to run a tank full with them. When I originally spotted some of these in a fish store many years ago, I thought they were pretty, and assumed they were tiny bubble tip anemones. I liked them enough to actually buy some, and the unscrupulous fish store owner charged me $20 for four of them. Within a few weeks there were 50 in my 29g aquarium, and I realized I'd made a big mistake. Basically they are Tribbles, and most hobbyists don’t want them in their system.

I cleaned out the acrylic workstation tray several times during this project, and remained vigilant to not allow any to pass through the tiny holes back into the tank. One minor but useful suggestion I'd offer: place a sponge in the tray to swipe cleaning tools against to more quickly remove any anemone tissue.

In conclusion, this method didn't throw the tank back into a cycle nor affect the coralline growth. The fish, remaining corals and inverts were completely unaffected. That in itself is a big win to me.

Reef Blog

A work-tray that fits multiple tanks

melev — Fri, 29 Jun 2018 23:58:00 +0000

A work-tray that fits multiple tanks melev Sat, 06/30/2018 - 02:58

When I have to do things in the aquarium, I like to have a solid work surface. What I want is something that will fit over the frag tank, over the 400g reef, or over the Anemone Cube. Each tank has a different dimension, so I designed a tray that could be placed over any aquarium using varied lengths of PVC pipe. This first tray is intentionally made to be right above the water's surface, allowing me to place fragging tools in the tray, as well as work with pieces of live rock.

The tray is 14" wide, 11" deep, and the side walls are 2" tall. The front and back walls are taller because they have PVC passing through them.

Once in place, I pulled out one piece of live rock after another from this aquarium, intent on scraping off manjano anemones that have taken over the system due to my ignoring them far too long. Standing in front of the aquarium, the work surface was pretty much right at the perfect height for me, and I used different tools to remove those pest anemones one by one. Wet tools could be placed in the tray, and that avoided dripping water down the front of the tank.

When it was time to clean up, I took it to the sink to rinse it clean with cold water. The holes are small enough that none of the loose anemone were able to fall back into the tank, and I didn't have a tray full of liquid to worry about. The big stuff was tossed in the trash, and the smaller bits were rinsed away.

I was very pleased overall. The tray handled the weight of the rock without incident, and I was leaning on the apparatus. Matter of fact, I noticed that I could roll it side to side on the pipe, and the pipes actually turned a little bit in the process.

I can see this tray being useful for gluing frags to frag plugs right above the water, but it would need a few frag plug holes at least along one edge.

Version 2 pending:
The next version will be designed to hang down a few inches inside the aquarium, and it will have a few holes that can hold some frag plugs. I like the idea of a floating tray inside the reef to place a few corals temporarily when re-arranging the reef, or when moving a few rocks into new positions especially after a rockslide event. In times like those, I always wished I had a third hand to hold stuff so I'm not forced to put corals on top of other corals, or even worse big rocks on top of fragile corals. Having a rack in the aquarium gives me a place to stash a few things, getting the main stuff back where I want them, then placing the remaining items that were on the tray wherever they'll fit.

Having a spot to keep new corals wet while you arrange things in the tank is another useful purpose for such a rack.

Reef Blog

I warned you that I was going to do it... and I did it.

melev — Tue, 28 Nov 2017 00:35:05 +0000

I warned you that I was going to do it... and I did it. melev Tue, 11/28/2017 - 03:35

In my live stream on Saturday, I announced to the world that I was going to hook up an ATO to my christmas tree. Why? Because I'm crazy. No seriously, once I tried to water the tree on the first day I knew that was going to be such a pain. The tree hasn't even had ornaments hung upon it yet, and I had to stick my head into the branches and using a flashlight see how much water I needed to add. No way I was going to do that for the next five to six weeks.

I took the Smart ATO Micro kit off my 60 frag system first. I wanted to use that kit because it has a sensor that works in total darkness inside the compartment it measures, and uses a small magnet externally to keep it affixed. At the same time, this allows me to try out the Icecap ATO kit (Video clip on Facebook) that I got recently, so that is now installed on that setup, to keep up with evaporation. But let's get back to the topic at hand, my 8' tree.

Using a handy 5g bucket, I installed the small feed pump, some silicone tubing and a siphon break fitting inline. (Video clip #2) The tubing is snaked into the tree, and held in place with a small plastic retention clip. It was a little bit tricky getting the magnet and my hand under that plastic reservoir with the tree already in place (so next year I'll do that before the tree is inserted. Next, three gallons of water went into the bucket, and I plugged in the Smart ATO Micro... which added just the right amount of water to replace what the tree had absorbed over the past day. (Video Clip #3)

If you didn't watch the live videos, I linked them above. These were shared on www.facebook.com/melevsreef where I tend to share all sorts of interesting things each day.

It's much easier to pour more water into the bucket. I'll drap something over it to hide it from view so it won't take away from the festive look, but for now my tree has an ATO and I'm very pleased. When I get back from Fiji, I'll decorate the tree. I love the smell of forest in my livingroom.

Did you spot the tiny blue light? That's the optical sensor for the ATO.

Reef Blog

Subscribe to Coral Magazine. Seriously.

melev — Fri, 02 Sep 2016 13:44:28 +0000

Subscribe to Coral Magazine. Seriously. melev Fri, 09/02/2016 - 16:44

"Everyone should be reading Coral." That's what I thought to myself months ago, and mentally added that topic to my ongoing list of future videos. Each issue has a central theme by multiple authors. Go subscribe now (we're tracking the results with this URL): http://www.coralmagazine.com/melev/

It really is a great publication, and you will learn all sorts of excellent points in every issue. I pick up new tips and factoids myself, and I've been in the hobby a long time. So whether you are new or have been reefkeeping a while, you'll benefit for sure.

Reef Blog

Biopellets - what you need to know

melev — Fri, 19 Aug 2016 15:51:21 +0000

Biopellets - what you need to know melev Fri, 08/19/2016 - 18:51

One of the topics I wanted to address as a full video is biopellets. Short answer: they work. Earlier this year, nitrates spiked in my reef and despite lots of effort it didn't get them down and keep them down, so I opted to get biopellets running again on my 400g reef. The results were spectacular, as expected.

Reef Blog

60g setup and cycle - How I did it using raw shrimp

melev — Sun, 14 Aug 2016 19:17:51 +0000

60g setup and cycle - How I did it using raw shrimp melev Sun, 08/14/2016 - 22:17

I've been uploading videos to Youtube pretty regularly lately. Did you happen to catch the Youtube Live show last week? Here's the latest one, so if you've missed a few you need to get caught up. I describe how I set up the 60g frag system I built myself, including all the acrylic work.

Reef Blog