Submitted by melev on Fri, 12/16/2016 - 01:44
Hooking up an RO or RO/DI system directly to your sump is a recipe for disaster. Avoid this costly mistake.
When it comes to reefkeeping, there are numerous basic tasks we'd like to automate. One of the most desired features is a way to top-off the tank automatically in order to replace water that has evaporated from the system, and many beginning hobbyists may not consider how important this is. As water evaporates, salinity rises in the display tank because salt does not evaporate. The water simply becomes more and more saline the longer the hobbyist waits to add freshwater.
Submitted by melev on Fri, 11/18/2016 - 00:42
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A sump gives you greater control over your reef or fish-only display tank. The benefits far exceed the risks, and thus most successful aquariums you'll see utilize a sump. Some even incorporate a refugium as well.
Submitted by emasis on Wed, 08/12/2015 - 03:44
Explaining the Radion schedule isn't that simple, unless there's some trick I'm not aware of. I've had quite a few people ask me for the schedule I use over the 60g Anemone Cube. Since December 2015, I've had a Radion Xr30 Gen2 over that tank. If you want to download that file, here it is:
Submitted by emasis on Tue, 05/12/2015 - 13:22
Having electrical outlets over open water is risky, and if you can do anything to reduce that risk, I think it's worth it. Water can make contact a variety of ways: A pump squirting upward, a big splash when you drop something or when livestock decides to jump, or even during something mundane like a waterchange and the hose accidentally floods our outlets as you move it from point A to point B. On top of that, salty air occurs around the clock due to evaporation, and when the climate calls for it, condensation can occur on and in those outlets. Has any of this struck a chord with you?
Submitted by emasis on Thu, 08/14/2014 - 06:07
For over a year, I'd been using a small spiral compact fluorescent bulb that only cost $7, with an output that was 75w of 6500K lighting. Under this 'daylight' color, my macro algae grew steadily. While shopping at Home Depot, I came across a new sealed-floodlight bulb that caught my interest. This new bulb costs $10, and also uses 19w. The one thing the package didn't mention was what Kelvin (color temperature) the bulb was. Please read this entire article, as a better bulb became apparent during 2005.
Submitted by emasis on Sat, 06/21/2014 - 03:58
Fragging corals is a big part of the hobby. Being able to acquire frags from others has benefits. Corals are shared rather than the constant harvesting of wild colonies in the ocean, and they are already accustomed to dwelling in a closed ecosystem. The giver prunes the colonies in their reef, allowing for better flow. They are able to 'bank' a coral with you in case theirs perishes for whatever reason. The receiver enjoys watching the little piece grow into something beautiful over time, and then will one day be a giver as well.
Submitted by emasis on Tue, 05/13/2014 - 04:52
I'm based in Texas and have been in the hobby since 1998. In all that time, I've never used a chiller for my tanks. I prefer to keep the room temperature comfortable for me around the clock, and thus my aquariums have never gotten overheated. However, in the summer months it always helps to use cooling fans. They are economical, relatively silent and take up little space.
Submitted by melev on Mon, 01/07/2013 - 16:03
A calcium reactor is a piece of equipment that helps maintain alkalinity and calcium in a reef tank. For years, I didn't buy one mainly because they are expensive, and dosed my tank with B-Ionic daily. That worked fine for a 29 gallon and a 55 gallon reef, but if your tank is larger than those, you may decide that a calcium reactor is the better choice long term.
Submitted by emasis on Sat, 09/01/2012 - 12:37
With the new set up, I've tried to avoid holding anything back and went "all in" so to speak. So I got busy one night, wiring up this ultra safe system by Aquahub. The way it works: You have two float switches wired in series, which are powered with a 12v DC power supply. When the switches are down, a relay opens the flow to a 110v power cord to supply power a pump that can push top off water from a reservoir into the sump. As the water level rises, the float rises and cuts power to the relay, which stops power to the 110v cord shutting off the feed pump.
Submitted by emasis on Wed, 08/29/2012 - 13:31
A HOB (Hang On Back) overflow or weir is a device used to drain water from the aquarium safely into a sump.
You need to prepare yourself, as this is about 30 seconds of your life that will get your heart beating faster than you'd expect.