100gpd 5-stage RO/DI system
Reef Shop > 100gpd RO/DI
If you are looking to buy an RO/DI system, please consider this superior 5-stage Reverse Osmosis De-Ionizing filtration system. It can produce 100 gallons per day when optimum conditions are met. (60-70 psi, 76° F, TDS <200)
This unit is very easy to install with quick-connect fittings. I wish all plumbing was this easy! It takes about 10 minutes to hook up, and you can start making pure water for your reef tank. Installation Instructions help you step by step!
It can be installed wherever you wish. You need a water source, and a drain for waste water.
Notice the DI that is hanging separately from the rest of the unit? Along with the full system, I provide a "Tee," an extra cut-off valve and some tubing, so that you can enjoy great tasting drinking water. For your reef tank, use the water coming out of the DI filter.
This unit sells for $169! That may sound expensive, but think of the benefits:
Or you can bite the bullet and install one of these units and have water available any time you need it. In the winter, I'm able to make 5 gallons of water in 85 minutes. In the summer, it takes 52 minutes to make the same amount, as the source water is warmer. The tap water here has a TDS reading of 277ppm. After the RO membrane, it reads 7ppm. Finally, after the DI cartridge, it reads 0. Pure clean water for the aquarium! The RO membrane rejection rate for my personal unit after 44 months of use: 97.5%
How much money will you continue to spend buying water and dechlorinators? It won't take long for you to break even, after that you are saving money making your own water. I figure I spent $60(plus tax) a year for Prime to treat my tap water. After 8 months, I estimated that I'd made 615 gallons of RO/DI for the four aquariums in my home. Buying that much water from the LFS would have cost me $246 plus tax, and that was for a period that was less than one year!
Buy one today!
Because there are so many opinions about the different units made by different manufacturers, and because many hobbyists debate what is better and what is necessary, below are a few observations for you to consider:
are the specifics about each filter, and who makes the membrane? What
type is it?
there any benefit to running two DI cartridges?
the membrane need to be flushed? Do I need a flush kit?
can you tell the carbon filters need to be replaced?
often should I change filters?
long will the RO membrane last?
are some units white? I can't see if the filters are dirty.
When your source water is very cold, RO units tend to slow down in production rate. They are designed to run with water that is closer to 78° F, which just happens to match our aquariums. Here's a neat trick that will get things back up to speed during the colder months:
Replace the tubing that leads from
your cold water pipe to the unit with a 25' long piece. Coil as much
of that tubing inside a 5 gallon bucket and fill the bucket up with
water so the coils are submerged. Put an aquarium heater in the bucket
and set it to 78° F (or hotter if necessary). The heater will keep the bucket water at
that temperature, and that water will warm up the water traveling
through the tubing to your RO/DI unit. Production rates will jump
back to normal.
Related items you may be interested in:
Here are the Installation Instructions
Problems? Troubleshooting FAQ
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