Monday, March 29, 2010
Time to change your RO filters?
Is it time to change your RO/DI filters? I date my system each time they are changed out, to help me keep track. They should be changed every six months, so I'm actually a month late in doing so. Whoops. However, the TDS reads zero, so there's no reason to worry, right?
Wrong.
After turning off the water source and opening the valve after the system to bleed off the pressure within, I removed the prefilter set (sediment & two carbon cartridges). After removing the middle carbon, which is the first in line after the sediment, smell it. If it seems strongly of chlorine, it has done its job in protecting the membrane. It'll smell like a properly maintained swimming pool, basically. Changing these filters out like clockwork will extend the life of the membrane, since chlorine eats away at it.
If your area's water has chloramines, one of the best defenses is 20" of carbon and 20 minutes of contact time. To achieve that, you need two 10" carbon filters and a 75gpd membrane. That works out timing-wise. If your first carbon is spent, the second one won't last much longer. Another reason to change these out regularly. You can purchase a chloramine test kit and measure the water after the filters prior to the membrane to determine the carbon lifespan, or err on the side of caution and change them out more frequently if you wish.
Looking at these two carbons, note how the right one is yellowing. That's to be expected - it was, after all, the one that reeked of chlorine.
Here's the prefilter set, which I sell in my Reef Shop.
The new filters were installed, and the water turned back on to flush out the system of air and the first burst of water for a few minutes. Because of the way my system is set up, the DI resin doesn't get wasted. I make drinking water from a Tee fitting prior to the DI section.
If your spouse has a label maker, use it. If you don't have a spouse, buy one. LOL
The label maker lets you date when bulbs need changing, media has been replaced, or filters installed. You can mark gear under your tank or in your fish room for when you need to leave your reef to a tank sitter during a vacation away from home.
Label the RO/DI system with the new date, and you're done.
The DI will be changed when the TDS begins to rise, probably around 5ppm. For now, it continues to read zero, so there's no reason to waste it/replace it.
Wrong.
After turning off the water source and opening the valve after the system to bleed off the pressure within, I removed the prefilter set (sediment & two carbon cartridges). After removing the middle carbon, which is the first in line after the sediment, smell it. If it seems strongly of chlorine, it has done its job in protecting the membrane. It'll smell like a properly maintained swimming pool, basically. Changing these filters out like clockwork will extend the life of the membrane, since chlorine eats away at it.
If your area's water has chloramines, one of the best defenses is 20" of carbon and 20 minutes of contact time. To achieve that, you need two 10" carbon filters and a 75gpd membrane. That works out timing-wise. If your first carbon is spent, the second one won't last much longer. Another reason to change these out regularly. You can purchase a chloramine test kit and measure the water after the filters prior to the membrane to determine the carbon lifespan, or err on the side of caution and change them out more frequently if you wish.
Looking at these two carbons, note how the right one is yellowing. That's to be expected - it was, after all, the one that reeked of chlorine.
Here's the prefilter set, which I sell in my Reef Shop.
The new filters were installed, and the water turned back on to flush out the system of air and the first burst of water for a few minutes. Because of the way my system is set up, the DI resin doesn't get wasted. I make drinking water from a Tee fitting prior to the DI section.
If your spouse has a label maker, use it. If you don't have a spouse, buy one. LOL
The label maker lets you date when bulbs need changing, media has been replaced, or filters installed. You can mark gear under your tank or in your fish room for when you need to leave your reef to a tank sitter during a vacation away from home.
Label the RO/DI system with the new date, and you're done.
The DI will be changed when the TDS begins to rise, probably around 5ppm. For now, it continues to read zero, so there's no reason to waste it/replace it.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
New product: 150gpd 5-stage RO/DI system with booster pump and more!
Melev's Reef is proud to announce a new product available from our Reef Shop:
This system has been in development for some time, and I had the first one shipped directly to me for testing. This is big upgrade from the regular 100gpd system I've been selling for years. The 150gpd membrane produces an average of 6.25 gallons per hour. The matching booster pump will provide this rate or better, based upon water conditions in your area.
Included with this 5-stage system is a dual in-line TDS meter, which allows you to measure the TDS of the water before and after the DI section. The meter shuts off automatically after 30 seconds. The default display is the "IN" probe, which I recommend be installed after the DI section, and the "OUT" probe should be installed before the DI to determine what is coming out of the RO membrane.
The booster pump is securely bolted to the enlarged wall bracket, which also holds the power supply. A 110v outlet needs to be nearby to power the booster pump, which will turn on and off automatically when water is being made. Once you close the ball valve on the output line, the system pressurizes and the booster pump shuts off - all is silent.
Running a RO/DI system with a booster pump is audible, and I would say it sounds like the icemaker filling up in the refrigerator. The sound may help avoid some floods, something silent RO/DI systems tend to do when we don't keep an eye on the collection container.
If you have a larger aquarium, run an aquarium-service business, or are on a well, this system will definitely supply your needs. Click below to learn more and order one today.
150gpd Boosted RO/DI
Please help spread the word to your friends or your club. :)
I'm so impressed that I think I'll keep using the prototype for my reef. Seeing water being produced at 92-96 PSI is impressive. It makes 5 gallons in 35 minutes - talk about warp speed!
This system has been in development for some time, and I had the first one shipped directly to me for testing. This is big upgrade from the regular 100gpd system I've been selling for years. The 150gpd membrane produces an average of 6.25 gallons per hour. The matching booster pump will provide this rate or better, based upon water conditions in your area.
Included with this 5-stage system is a dual in-line TDS meter, which allows you to measure the TDS of the water before and after the DI section. The meter shuts off automatically after 30 seconds. The default display is the "IN" probe, which I recommend be installed after the DI section, and the "OUT" probe should be installed before the DI to determine what is coming out of the RO membrane.
The booster pump is securely bolted to the enlarged wall bracket, which also holds the power supply. A 110v outlet needs to be nearby to power the booster pump, which will turn on and off automatically when water is being made. Once you close the ball valve on the output line, the system pressurizes and the booster pump shuts off - all is silent.
Running a RO/DI system with a booster pump is audible, and I would say it sounds like the icemaker filling up in the refrigerator. The sound may help avoid some floods, something silent RO/DI systems tend to do when we don't keep an eye on the collection container.
If you have a larger aquarium, run an aquarium-service business, or are on a well, this system will definitely supply your needs. Click below to learn more and order one today.
150gpd Boosted RO/DI
Please help spread the word to your friends or your club. :)
I'm so impressed that I think I'll keep using the prototype for my reef. Seeing water being produced at 92-96 PSI is impressive. It makes 5 gallons in 35 minutes - talk about warp speed!
Labels: 150gpd, booster pump, ro/di
Friday, November 14, 2008
The Reef Shop is open at last
I've added a new page to my site, specifically for the items I sell. Some people get confused and think I run a LFS (local fish store) or that I sell all sorts of stuff. I focus primarily on RO/DI water filtration, but do acrylic work as well. So here is the new page, which you will see as a new button on many of my pages, as well as by this graphic on the front page of my site:
The URL is simple: http://melevsreef.com/shop
The associated pages will soon match that page.
After the new NightSea article "Capturing the Unseen" came out in this month's Reefkeeping Magazine, a friend of mine is organizing a Group Buy to purchase the gear for more of us to take great fluorescing pictures. Click on this graphic to get the details.
Be sure to read the guidelines carefully, and save some money on yet another fascinating facet of our hobby.
The URL is simple: http://melevsreef.com/shop
The associated pages will soon match that page.
After the new NightSea article "Capturing the Unseen" came out in this month's Reefkeeping Magazine, a friend of mine is organizing a Group Buy to purchase the gear for more of us to take great fluorescing pictures. Click on this graphic to get the details.
Be sure to read the guidelines carefully, and save some money on yet another fascinating facet of our hobby.
Labels: order online, ro/di, shop
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
RO/DI pages updated; Skimmer update
I worked on my site tonight and updated these two pages, pertaining to RO/DI stuff. It's kind of fun making picture tutorials.
How to Change Filters
Common Questions and Troubleshooting
The mesh mod I did to my skimmer continues to do well. This picture shows my Euroreef's collection cup holding one gallon of skimmate after 4 days of skimming.
Ready to go again. ;)
My tank continues to grow this brown slime on the glass, which normally is green for most people. I'm tired of it, so I decided to replace the DI on my RO unit in case that will help. The TDS was 3, but maybe 0 will make all the difference.
How to Change Filters
Common Questions and Troubleshooting
The mesh mod I did to my skimmer continues to do well. This picture shows my Euroreef's collection cup holding one gallon of skimmate after 4 days of skimming.
Ready to go again. ;)
My tank continues to grow this brown slime on the glass, which normally is green for most people. I'm tired of it, so I decided to replace the DI on my RO unit in case that will help. The TDS was 3, but maybe 0 will make all the difference.
Thursday, September 21, 2006
RO/DI - how to change filters
